We’ve identified midsize ropes to be in the 9.3 to 9.6 mm size range and for many climbers a midsize rope may be the only rope they own if they are looking for a single rope to own. That balance has caused midsize ropes in the area of 9.5 mm to be popular choice. Midsize ropes represent a balance between the low weight of a smaller diameter rope and the durability found in a thicker rope. If you’re climbing big wall routes, like El Capitan, a rope in this size range may be what you’re looking for. Some trad or multi-pitch climbers may favor a rope in this range if they are climbing on sharp rock or where abrasion resistance is key. Ropes in this size range can be a popular size for climbers who want a durable toprope or for a sport climber who isn’t pushing the limits with hard redpoints and onsights. Thick ropes are going to be heavier than their skinnier counterparts but they are also more durable and can withstand greater abuse from sharp rock and repeated falls, typically due to a thicker sheath. Hence, we’ve focused on 9.7 to 10.2 mm as today’s thick rope size.įor many today, a rope in this range is their first rope purchase, as evidenced by the 9.8 size being one of the two most popularly sold rope sizes at online retailer. Many manufacturers climbing rope line tops out somewhere in the area 10 mm and ropes beyond that often are relegated to institutional use by schools, guides and groups whose sole mission is toproping. Twenty years ago the workhorse rope may have been a fat 11 mm model but today you’ll find fewer of those thick cords on the market. Thick ropes are the workhorse ropes that are made to take a beating. You may also consider if the rope is going to serve a specialized function or if you’re looking for a one-size-fits-all rope that gets used for all of your climbing. Determining the type of climbing you are most likely to use the rope may be the biggest factor in choosing the rope diameter. What type of climber are you? Where are you going to use the rope primarily? Sport? Trad? Single pitch cragging or long multipitch routes? Rock or ice or both? Alpine climbing or mountaineering? In choosing a rope the first thing you’ll want to consider is the rope diameter.
We’ve created a series of steps to guide you through the rope buying process and help you buy the best rope for your needs.
On top of all that, you can develop an intimate relationship with your rope as you handle it repeatedly for clips and tying in or when coiling it at the end of the day, causing many climbers to love their rope or to view it with scorn if it doesn’t perform like they want. It’s likely the single most expensive piece of equipment you’ll purchase for climbing and it provides security every time use it, whether for lowering or on a big fall. Your climbing rope is one of the most important purchases you’ll make.
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